A Brief Interlude in the National, Edinburgh

On our whirlwind, 36-hour visit to Edinburgh, we realised at one point that we needed to somehow slowdown and take a moment to collect ourselves. We took a walk in East Princes Street Gardens, past the Scott Monument, and spotted the National (formerly known as the Scottish National Gallery). With free entry, we quickly agreed that this was a perfect place to while away some time.

The National boasts an impressive collection of fine art, featuring masterpieces from the Renaissance to the early 20th century, all housed within a grand neoclassical building. These were my favourite pieces in the gallery.

Robert Burns (1869-1941), The Hunt (previously known as Diana and Her Nymphs)

Not to be confused with the poet Robert Burns!

First to catch my eye was this vibrant 1920s panel which depicts the Roman goddess Diana in an exotic, jungle-like setting filled with wild animals and rhythmic energy, highlighting her role as the goddess of hunting.

William Johnstone (1897-1981), A Point in Time

Next was this abstract painting which features natural, light-infused forms and mysterious cavernous spaces, possibly inspired by the landscapes of the Scottish Borders. If you look closely, you can spot me in the reflection (I did not realise at the time that I captured more reflection than artwork!).

William Crozier (1893-1930), Edinburgh (from Salisbury Crags)

I liked this Edinburgh cityscape by Crozier which reflects his Cubist influences, using geometric forms and dramatic lighting inspired by his travels to Italy and studies with André Lhote in Paris.

Waller Hugh Paton (1828-1895), Entrance to the Cuiraing, Skye

Painted from memory with the aid of a pencil sketch, this dramatic landscape by Paton captures the awe-inspiring Quiraing on Skye, dominated by 'The Needle' and vast natural elements. The lone, kilted figure is dwarfed by the scene, reflecting the artist’s 1866 visit and his sense of the site’s sublime power. Can you spot the figure?

The view from inside the National – looking towards the Scott Monument and the Balmoral Clock Tower

John Duncan (1866-1945), Saint Bride

Next to catch my eye was this depiction of Saint Bride’s journey to Bethlehem, with angels carrying her across a seascape inspired by the Outer Hebrides. It is believed that the tiny clown (or holy fool) on the leading angel's robe was a self-portrait of the artist.

William Dyce (1806-1864), Francesca da Rimini

I loved this painting of the doomed lovers Francesca and Paolo from Dante’s Inferno, with its lingering hint of their tragic fate symbolised by the disembodied hand of Francesca’s murderous husband, Gianciotto. (Can you see the hand?)

Sir Edwin Landseer (1802-1873), The Monarch of the Glen

This beautiful painting caught my eye from across the room, with its striking portrayal of a majestic twelve-point stag standing proudly in the Scottish Highlands. Landseer’s The Monarch of the Glen, one of the most iconic Scottish works of the 19th century, became a symbol of Scotland’s natural grandeur and has been reproduced on everything from whisky bottles to biscuit tins.

Arthur Melville (1855-1904), Egyptian Interior & George Henry (1858-1943), Geisha

By this time, we'd worked up quite an appetite for a cup of tea and some cake. My final stop was these two paintings with their beautiful detail.

On the left, is Melville's Egyptian Interior, a serene composition inspired by his 1881 Cairo sketches. Intricate mashrabiyya woodwork and subtle light effects highlight his fascination with decorative detail, balanced by the calm presence of a seated figure.

On the right is George Henry's Geisha, where the rich patterns and sparkling details of the geisha’s attire, hair, and fan are set against a stylized Mount Fuji and patterned screen. These elements reflect his deft brushwork and the influence of an 1882 Glasgow exhibition of Oriental art.

The National
National Galleries of Scotland
The Mound
Edinburgh
EH2 2EL

Open daily, 10am–5pm
Free admission | Charges for some exhibitions

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A Burst of Spring Colour at Tulleys Tulip Festival

On Sunday morning, in the spirit of continuing our monthly outdoor adventures, we drove to Surrey to visit the Tulleys Tulip Festival. It was my birthday weekend and our visit to this blooming great extravaganza reminded me why I love the month of May so much.

I couldn't possibly narrow down my selection of photographs so prepare for a botanical overload as I share my favourite sights of the morning.

Tulleys Tulip Festival is highly Instagrammable and we began our journey by walking past the windmill and through the Secret Garden.

If you're one of the many people who weren't able to visit Keukenhof Gardens this year, I guess this might make you feel a bit better.

We met some unicorns along the way. The festival must look beautiful at twilight or night, but I think we chose the perfect time to go (first thing in the morning, before the crowds).

Suddenly, we were out in the famous field of tulips.

I'd never been to Tulleys Farm before but we enjoyed ourselves a lot and have decided to return for the annual Pumpkin or Halloween festivals later in the year. I was most impressed how many different kiosks there were to buy food or drink.

After we finished exploring the tulip fields, Stephen offered to take me on the Big Wheel. This was awfully nice of him, seeing that he is scared of heights.

The views were lovely and I liked that the wheel went around a couple of times to let you really appreciate the sights. You can see that the tulip fields are fairly small but there were further fields to the right of the photo too. We unfortunately couldn’t get to Tulleys in March or April, which is the best time to see the tulip fields at their best.

After our tour of the tulip fields, we went to the nearby Wiremill Restaurant in Lingfield for a delicious breakfast with a view. I had the vegetarian breakfast and have officially been converted to vegan sausages!

If you enjoyed this post, you will definitely enjoy our visit to the Pashley Manor Gardens Tulip Festival too.

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Liverpool Pier Head at Dusk

We were back in Liverpool earlier this month, 43 years to the day after we left. I don't come back as often as I used to, but leaving never gets easier.

"It's not the leaving of Liverpool that grieves me // But my darling when I think of thee" - The Dubliners

We ate an exceptional meal at Cargo Seafood Restaurant & Bar on our first night, and took a long, sunset walk along Princes Parade afterwards.

We looked across the Mersey river when we emerged from the restaurant to see the sun setting over New Brighton.

I don't think I will ever not be in awe of the Liver Building. Built in the Edwardian Baroque style, the Liver Building has two clock towers, topped by copper Liver Birds (Note, Liver is pronounced lie-ver, unlike Liverpool which rhymes with river).

The sky began to glow ever more orange as we made our way back towards Albert Dock.

We saw brand new buildings that I had not seen before, these near to the new Isle of Man ferry terminal.

I should probably mention at this time that I'm an Everton supporter and went to see the brand new stadium earlier in the day. I predict that the derelict area between the Isle of Man ferry terminal and Bramley Moore Dock will be completely redeveloped within 5-7 years.

We watched skateboarders show off at the old Pier Head while the sky burnt orange behind them.

We stopped to admire the Beatles statue at the old Pier Head. I said to Stephen that I didn't know who they were but they must be famous as so many people were taking photos with them, which elicited several gasps and stares from the crowd of tourists.

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The Ornate Ironwork of Crossness Pumping Station

I love hometown tourism, the idea that we don't need to travel far to discover hidden treasures. Despite my lofty aspirations, it took me far too long to visit Crossness Pumping Station, which is practically located in my back garden.

The pumping station has been hailed as a "wonder of Victorian engineering" and was built in the 1860s by Sir Joseph Bazalgette. Before Bazalgette’s system, raw sewage flowed directly into the Thames, contributing to outbreaks of cholera and the infamous Great Stink of 1858. The pumping station helped move waste from the city out towards the Thames Estuary. Of course, we are now in a new era of public sanitation crisis but Crossness stands as a testament to Victorian ingenuity and design.

We began our visit in the main engine house. With its ornate ironwork and beautiful restoration, it is easy to see why the pumping station has acquired the nickname “Cathedral of Sewage".

It's quite simply breathtaking inside.

The central hub of the station is known as "Octagon", which is undeniably its most photogenic feature. It was mesmerising and I managed to take one or two (dozen) photos of it on the day.

In yet another example of thoughtful Victorian design, the eight-sided structure is crowned by a cupola that allows the Octagon to be flooded with natural light, further enhancing its cathedral-like quality.

One of the highlights of our visit was seeing the Prince Consort engine up close and being able to see (and hear) it in operation. (See the enormous flywheel below). Look out for special Steam Days if you would like to see this part of the tour.

Beyond the engine house, there’s plenty more to explore. The Boiler House exhibition taught us all about John Snow, an anesthesiologist, who worked hard to identify the source of the cholera outbreak in 1854, ultimately discovering that it was a contaminated water pump on Broad Street. This was a crucial step towards better sanitation in London and the work Bazalgette did to prevent future outbreaks. There is also a display of Victorian-era toilets which was most entertaining.

Completed in 1865, Crossness Pumping Station turns 160 his year and is celebrating with special events throughout the year. Open days sell out quickly so be sure to visit the Crossness Pumping Station website to secure your ticket.

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Walking the Darent Valley Path from The Chequers to Dartford

Here's a little known fact about me: I get inordinately excited when planning walks and adventures. It makes sense, because I subsist on the memories of those adventures for days afterwards until I can start planning the next one. I was very busy with work in the week before we walked the Darent Valley Path from The Chequers pub back to Dartford, but dreaming of my upcoming walk got me through the week.

This sunny, late winter day is still making my heart sing.

We began by catching a taxi to The Chequers pub in Darenth. They were extremely busy inside with the Sunday lunch rush but we took a seat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed some shandies while soaking up the sunshine.

On leaving the pub, we turned left and walked a short way until we saw the signs for the Darenth Valley path. Once on the path, we followed the river Darent for a while. The path is well-kept but certainly wild.

We suddenly encountered a very boggy field with a well-worn path leading to the M25 underpass. We found we had to take a fainter route farther from the Darent to avoid the mud. Thankfully, my hiking boots survived the ordeal.

The underpass was one of my favourite parts of the journey. I loved the imaginative and bold murals decorating what would otherwise be a grey space.

I have no idea what Helch refers to but I'm sure it's of great importance.

Just before the path lead us back onto Hawley Road, we walked through this pretty little arch. I imagine it is quite beautiful in summer.

Once on Hawley Road, you turn right and need to walk under the A2 before joining the path again. Luckily it is well-signposted.

We really did pick a good day for it and wide open spaces like this make my heart soar.

There were distinctive Darent Valley Path signs along the way.

Soon we were walking alongside the Darent river again, with all its walkways and charm.

We finally arrived at Brooklands Lake, one of my favourite places in Dartford and where I take my walks and runs. (More walks now since I gave up running for Peloton training).

We met a pair of Canada Geese. These types of geese are very common after being introduced to the UK about 300 years ago.

We took the long path up from the lake to the main road. By this stage, the only thing keeping Stephen going was the promise of a pint at the end of the walk.

We stopped by the Ivy Leaf; this is such a lovely, friendly pub and is very dog friendly. We then stopped at The Rose on Overy Street. Sadly, their beautiful rose garden was still one week away from its spring opening. We sat on the patio, looking out over the beer garden, and enjoyed our drink while patrons inside enjoyed their Sunday lunch.

After 2.5 miles, we were back home, just in time to enjoy the stew I’d left bubbling away in the oven. I do love a longer walk, but if I want Stephen to join me next time, I’ll need to find a route with more pubs along the way. Here's hoping spring decides to show up for our next adventure!

If you're looking for a GPX file of the full 19 mile stretch of the Darent Valley Path from the bank of the River Thames at Dartford to Sevenoaks, I can recommend the Walking Englishman who has uploaded a file on his Darent Valley Path page. I downloaded and then saved the file to Garmin Connect - Training & Planning - Courses and can then use it for future walks along different stretches of the route.

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