Ghosts & Secrets: Edinburgh's Haunted Vaults Tour

On a crisp June evening, we embarked on Auld Reekie Tours' Vaults & Graveyard Tour, delving into Edinburgh's shadowy past. Our guide led us through the historic Greyfriars Graveyard and the eerie corridors of the 17th-century vaults, sharing chilling tales of body snatchers and restless spirits. Based in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town, Auld Reekie Tours has been captivating visitors since 1995 with their unique tours.

Since university, my friend Sarah and I have been fascinated by ghosts and the supernatural. As goths—or "coffin kids"—we explored haunted corners of Johannesburg and the eerie depths of the London Dungeon. My interest in Edinburgh’s ghostly side stemmed from Victoria Schwab’s Cassidy Blake series and T.L. Huchu’s Edinburgh Nights, so when we planned our whirlwind 36-hour visit, a ghost tour was a must.

We met our guide on Lawnmarket and made our way to Greyfriars Kirkyard, where the statue of Greyfriars Bobby stands in tribute to the little dog who kept watch over his master’s grave for 14 years.

The eastern side of Greyfriars Kirkyard is bordered by the buildings on Candlemaker Row.

Inside the cemetery, we saw iron cages known as mortsafes, designed to deter body snatchers, not trap the undead as I had initially guessed. We learned about Burke & Hare, the infamous murderers who sold their victims to the city’s medical schools.

The tour took a darker turn with the history of the Covenanters. Imprisoned in Greyfriars Kirkyard during the Killing Times under Charles I, they endured horrific conditions, and the ruthless Sir George "Bloody" Mackenzie earned his terrifying reputation. Even today, tales of the Mackenzie Poltergeist persist, adding to the graveyard’s chilling atmosphere. That is his tomb in the photo above.

As we left, we saw another Greyfriars Bobby statue, his nose worn down from visitors it for good luck.

We continued down Cowgate, named after the medieval practice of herding cattle to the market, and entered the South Bridge Vaults.

Though I knew the vaults were hidden within the arches of South Bridge, seeing an illustration helped me grasp their eerie layout. Much of City of Ghosts is set here, making this part of the tour especially exciting. Originally built to connect the Old Town’s High Street with new developments, the vaults soon became home to the city’s poorest and a rumoured hotspot for crime, including bodysnatching.

Our first stop was a chamber used by a coven of Wiccans. The group had abandoned their original room after their leader experienced something so disturbing that they built a stone circle to contain its negative energy.

The guide dared us to step inside the circle while warning us not to—only a few brave souls took the challenge.

But for me, the real allure lay in the empty vaults and echoing corridors. The lives that had passed through these darkened spaces over the centuries were almost tangible.

Too soon, the tour ended, and we stepped into the surprising daylight. With one last look at South Bridge, we set off in search of dinner and a pint.

We loved our tour with Auld Reekie Tours and highly recommend it. It was the perfect mix of Edinburgh’s dark history, scandal, and spine-chilling moments.