The Ornate Ironwork of Crossness Pumping Station

I love hometown tourism, the idea that we don't need to travel far to discover hidden treasures. Despite my lofty aspirations, it took me far too long to visit Crossness Pumping Station, which is practically located in my back garden.

The pumping station has been hailed as a "wonder of Victorian engineering" and was built in the 1860s by Sir Joseph Bazalgette. Before Bazalgette’s system, raw sewage flowed directly into the Thames, contributing to outbreaks of cholera and the infamous Great Stink of 1858. The pumping station helped move waste from the city out towards the Thames Estuary. Of course, we are now in a new era of public sanitation crisis but Crossness stands as a testament to Victorian ingenuity and design.

We began our visit in the main engine house. With its ornate ironwork and beautiful restoration, it is easy to see why the pumping station has acquired the nickname “Cathedral of Sewage".

It's quite simply breathtaking inside.

The central hub of the station is known as "Octagon", which is undeniably its most photogenic feature. It was mesmerising and I managed to take one or two (dozen) photos of it on the day.

In yet another example of thoughtful Victorian design, the eight-sided structure is crowned by a cupola that allows the Octagon to be flooded with natural light, further enhancing its cathedral-like quality.

One of the highlights of our visit was seeing the Prince Consort engine up close and being able to see (and hear) it in operation. (See the enormous flywheel below). Look out for special Steam Days if you would like to see this part of the tour.

Beyond the engine house, there’s plenty more to explore. The Boiler House exhibition taught us all about John Snow, an anesthesiologist, who worked hard to identify the source of the cholera outbreak in 1854, ultimately discovering that it was a contaminated water pump on Broad Street. This was a crucial step towards better sanitation in London and the work Bazalgette did to prevent future outbreaks. There is also a display of Victorian-era toilets which was most entertaining.

Completed in 1865, Crossness Pumping Station turns 160 his year and is celebrating with special events throughout the year. Open days sell out quickly so be sure to visit the Crossness Pumping Station website to secure your ticket.